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Austin MN

Hi all I am doing a college project next summer on over head watering vs. drip tape watering. Was wondering what method people use and prefer ( what's your option) if any one has giant pumpkin reports on watering I would love to get them as well :)

My email is tanner.n.conway@gmail if you have any watering meathod reports thanks Tanner

9/20/2013 8:57:48 PM

Buffalo, MN ([email protected])

Tanner, the speakers before and after me at the MN ST. Fair, (Horticulturist), both bashed overhead watering saying it was one of the best way to spread disease in your garden/patch. However, when I find an easier way to water than overhead I'll probably stick with it.

9/20/2013 10:00:24 PM

Austin MN

One of the key points I'm looking at for my experiment. That's why it's so important to treat both plants equal for disease

9/20/2013 10:25:45 PM

west central IN/East central IL

So, would it be best to use systemics for your project or keep plants small for easier application of treatments for diseases?

9/20/2013 11:58:35 PM

Austin MN

The plants will be grown to regular size every thing will be the same. Same treatment for diseases fertilizer ex.

9/21/2013 12:22:07 AM

Western ny

I have used overhead watering 4 yrs. ---- I now use a drip tape system and have had NO disease in the last 4 yrs.-----I water 3 X a day

9/21/2013 11:46:26 AM

Stanwood, Washington

Something I am interested is using wizzer type micro sprinklers under the canopy so that you can use them to foliar feed.

9/21/2013 12:45:43 PM

Austin MN

Im curious as to what Pap has to say? I think the Wallace's use overhead watering?

9/21/2013 12:53:38 PM

Lodi, California

I am pretty sure the Wallaces used a combination of hand and overhead watering. I am going to use the Thad Starr method next year for sure.

9/21/2013 2:53:18 PM

consider summer time temperatures

9/21/2013 3:10:44 PM

Austin MN

Don that's a great point! there are so many factors and details I will have to record.

9/21/2013 3:57:52 PM

Paradise Mountain, New York

Ron Wallace uses over head watering. I know a couple of other heavy hitters did use drip tapes and went back to overhead watering because, to set up drip tapes and the problems you can have, they felt it wasn't worth it. Then again, everyone likes one way better then the other.

9/21/2013 5:40:22 PM

Fairfield, CT, 06825

Don't you mean the Mombert method Ash?

9/21/2013 6:19:33 PM

Waterville, Ohio

I used soaker hose this year and lucked out big time, the coverage was spotty and fortunatly we had ample rain. I would never again use over head/ impact for an entire season, way to much water in one area without a way to control output. Will be switching to micro sprinklers or drip tape in upcoming years.

9/21/2013 6:26:44 PM

Midway, UT

I know a number of growers that use both effectively in their patch. I don't use drip tape but something similar under the canopy using Dan Micro sprinklers. In Colorado if you don't mist the plants during the heat of summer during the day you are going to get leaf burn. However I found that overhead left big dry areas under the canopy kind of dry so the combination of the two has worked best for me. I started doing that last year. Everything is on a timer which I adjust according to the weather.

9/21/2013 7:48:38 PM

Germany

Just imagine you were a drop of rain (alternatively, a drop out of a sprinkler), you hit the leaf, run down the leaf stalk, enter the soil right where the tap root is, and then you spread out in the soil...you will deform into a cone, a cone of moist soil, which reaches the thick parts of the tap roots first and the fine root tips last. Hence, by rain an by overhead irrigation the design of the leaves and tap roots will make the root tips of the tap roots breathe for as long as possible. Furthermore, each drop of rain (or sprinkler) water which hits the soil at the tap root will dissolve minerals as soon as it enters the soil, and will then transport the dissolved minerals in the same cone-style from the base of the tap root toward the outside of this cone of moist soil, to the place where the finest roots are, which are most likely to absorb the minerals.
Summary: I think overhead watering should be a fine thing, one "simply" needs to make sure that the leaves will dry very soon after watering (prevention of powdery mildew), and the sprinklers don´t use too cold water (because it would cool down the soil and thus lower root performance).

9/22/2013 3:56:23 PM

Austin MN

Great point pumpking!

curious too if any one knows what method was used for the 2328 pound kin grown?

9/22/2013 3:59:05 PM

Connecticut

Tconway:

This may seem like a simple experiment but to test this is a fairly complex one. First off, I understand you are looking at two methods for delivering water, but I cannot understand what you are going to be measuring? (Your depended variable) Is fruit size what you are looking for or are you going to be looking at wilting stress on the leaves/plant?

Personally, while we all like the giant pumpkins, for research the key is replications and giant pumpkin plants take up a lot of space so I would favor a more bush variety of pumpkins/squash so your plant population and be increased in the same area. Also, if this is going to be a field research project weed control should also be looked at very carefully as this can skew results very easily.

I personally use drip irrigation as I feel it is the best because as Pumpking pointed out water enters the soil and spreads out in a cone pattern. So for my soil type 18” separation ensure the cones meet and do not overlap providing even watering. This is based on soil type and here is an image demonstrating what I am talking about…

http://www.goes-r.gov/education/comet/hydro/basic/HydrologicCycle/media/graphics/stills_of_swfs/soil_textures.jpg

Overhead irrigation is vital to food production as if you are unaware look up what “Center Pivot Irrigation”.

Reading over some of the posts the Thad Starr method is basically under canopy micro sprinklers. Here is a link to the assembly instructions.

http://www.starrfarms.net/sprinklerguide.htm

You have plenty of time to plan but I would look more at the details of your experiment so you can gain some good data that we all can benefit from.

9/22/2013 4:43:48 PM

Austin MN

Thanks for your impute Matt. I sent an email back :)

9/22/2013 5:37:16 PM

Joliet, IL

I use a heavy droplet misting head on 6 foot stakes....watering and cooling at same time in midwest heat. I don't bury vines anymore and just add mych at leaf junctions. This way I feel comfortable misting/watering 8 hours in the day if needed on 100 plus temp days. I have grown in same backyard spot 11 years. Good fungicides with stihl fogger eliminates leaf/moisture related disease. Soil born diseases can get you with both drip and overhead. I couldn't grow in midwest without cooling my plants via overheas watering...way too much heat stress without.

9/22/2013 7:41:45 PM

Rochester, MN

Tanner,
I agree with most of the growers...we know that overhead is not the best method...unless you are trying to cool down your plants...so might need both in a hot summer.
I use overhead due to it takes me about 5 mins to set it up...put sprinkler on 6ft post already in middle of my hole as part of the "prep" process. Then I run a hose to it and I'm done. :-)

9/22/2013 11:19:24 PM

Lloydminster/AB

When it rains I don't have any dry spots under the leaves(on my outside plants of course). I think alot of the time we underestimate the amount of water it takes to get the soil moist enough, especially with over head watering. I heat my water with a tankless water heater and water overhead in my greenhouse. I'm lucky, powdery mildew rarely shows up and even if it does it is very late in the season. I don't think the spores overwinter here. I run soaker hose as well but tend to go back to the overhead because it more even in distribution.

9/22/2013 11:22:44 PM