From

Location

Message

Date Posted

Indiana

Another question: Anyone out there ever drill a well to water their patch?? I am thinking i could save a bit of cash by putting in a shallow well instead of paying for city water I only need to go 20 to 30 foot or less. The water level in the gravel pit behind my lot is only about 15 feet below the surface. any thoughts??
steve

12/2/2003 3:31:58 PM

Columbus Ohio

Why dont you just buy a pump and a suction hose and draw water from the gravel pit behind you.
John

12/2/2003 4:17:49 PM

Eugene, OR

It's a pretty simple process. The amount of water available over a certain period of time and pump selection are about the only major things you need to consider. epending on the depth of the well, you'll most likely have to use a positive displacement type pump to ensure the pump can prime itself. Depending on pump design, most centrifugal type pumps will not prime if more than a couple of feet above the surface....meaning you get no water!

The pump will be your largest purchase but for a pumpkin patch, a small pump will be more than ample. Most drip and irrigation systems only require about 25 psi at most and the amount of water required is very little. If you give me the figures on the actual depth of the well as well as your expected demand in gallons/minute I'll be happy to tell you what size pump you need to do the job.

12/2/2003 4:21:38 PM

Midwest

Steve, Buy a sand point,pipe and some drive couplings and drive it down. 4 pieces of pipe 5'long and a 4' point should be good. If you can get a auger, auger down to the water then drive the point, lot easer than pounding all 24' into the ground. Clarence

12/2/2003 4:29:23 PM

Indiana

I would like to pump water from the pit but would have to run a 100 ft electric line for the pump if i put the well near the house i can tie into all the garden hose taps with minimal plumbing modifications. Clancy where do you find the parts you are talking about also what do you use to drive the pipe? could you use a hand held fence post auger with a very small bit to drill the pipe in?? Also what if you hit a large rock on the way down, do you have to start over? the gravel pit is primarily small gravel and sand with a few larger rocks mixed in. The gravel vein runs under my lot as far as i can tell so after i get ten or so feet down i should be into the gravel and sand.
Thanks Steve

12/2/2003 4:49:59 PM

Kenyon, Mn.

Clarence is correct, go with the sand point

12/2/2003 5:51:47 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

I believe a site search will answer some of the questions Kilr gave me some places to get the pipe/sand points from...

12/2/2003 7:29:48 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

lehmans surface water well...site search

12/2/2003 7:33:19 PM

northern indiana

I use a setup like what you are considering my nocturnal canine pal. The shallow well was already here when i Bought the house but the house itself is on city water. I bought a regular shallow well pump at lowes. You will find that if it has a pressure switch (which i think most all do) you cant use anything that reduces the flow overmuch (wands with shut off valves, drip hoses, ect) or the switch will cycle rapidly. You will need a acumulator tank. some come as combos with small like 5 gal tanks.. i have't bought a tank yet but have considered it. brian is right about the pump type! an acumulator tank may solve my priming problem as i will be able to shut off the valve at the hose without loosing pressure, but i have to prime the pump every time i water as the setup is now! i cant use an electic timer having to prime the pump! you may also want to consider a sprinkler type pump with greater flow rates than a regular household shallow well pump. mine will run 2 sprinklers but any more and the flow starts to be insuficient to run the sprinklers properly. (cheap pump) I dont know how an acumulator tank will affect this but i doubt it will help.
Hapdad

12/2/2003 10:46:23 PM

Midwest

Here in WI you can get everything you need at the local hardware store. A shallow well pump will pull water 15-20'
Put a check valve on the suction side, prime it once and you are ready to go.No pressure tank is needed,just set the pressure switch till it runs non-stop.A 1/2 hp pump should give you 5-7 gpm or run 3-4 sprinklers depending on the size you have. Hope this helps you out. Clarence

12/3/2003 12:31:31 AM

Jackson Twp, Ohio

would't a check valve placed at some point in line prevent the pump from loosing its prime? I'm no expert but thats just my thought. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Nick

12/3/2003 10:26:47 AM

Montoursville, PA

Check valves are designed to leak. The pump will loose its prime without the water in a tank to keep the line primed.
This can be corrected by having a valve that does not leak like an inexpensive gate valve to act like your finger on the upside of a straw full of water. Now if one closes the non-leaking valve first and then turns off the pump the prime will be held.

12/5/2003 4:06:47 PM

Carrollton, Ga.

If you put a foot valve at the bottom it will not lose its prime.
Doug Adams
(son of a well driller)
Adams-Massey Well Drillers
Pump Sales & Service

12/5/2003 6:18:30 PM

Midwest

Hey Doc...FYI check valves are not made to leak..they are made to hold the prime of a pump. You do not need a tank on the pump. Clarence

12/6/2003 12:28:11 PM