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Subject:  Nutrient Balance

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MastaGardener

Chesterfield, MO

"Feeding in the Right Balance" in Don Langevin's 3rd book states that as a general rule there should be:
1. 10 times as much calcium as magnesium
2. 15 times as much calcium as potassium
3. a least 2 times as much magnesium as potassium

Base Saturation should be approximately:
Calcium - 75-90%
Magnesium - 7-10%
Potassium - 3-5%

Based on this, although I received a couple helpful responses before, I am a little lost as to how I should be correcting my soil nutrients imbalance. I am going to post my soil test again below:

PH: 7.4
Phosphorus: 292 lbs/acre
Potassium: 664
Calcium: 5158
Magnesium: 724
Sulfur: 70
Boron: 2.2
Copper: 5.0
Iron: 718
Manganese: 278
Zinc: 21.4
Sodium: 138
Soluble Salts: .3 mmho/cm
Organic Matter: 4.0% ENR 124
CEC: 14.1 meq/100g

Calculated Cation Saturation: K = 5.7%, Ca = 72.2%, Mg = 19.7%, Na = 2.1%

Clay Loam: 23% Sand, 48% Silt, 29% Clay

My Approximate Ratios:
Calcium to Magnesium 7.15 : 1
Calcium to Potassium 7.75 : 1
Magnesium to Potassium 1.1 : 1

Please help a confused guy lol!

Steve G.

10/25/2003 12:47:39 AM

Tremor

[email protected]

It's too bad the pH is already so high. A small amount of high calcium (calcitic not dolomitic) limeston would have supplied calcium but not magnesium & the ratio issue would be gone (not that your existing ratio even disturbs me anyway). So instead use a non reactive form of calcium such as Gypsum with a smidgen of additional sulfur to knock that pH down a bit.

Perhaps the sensible thing to do would be to focus on physical structure & pH for now. Then during the growing season next year you can use liquid chelated calcium in your spray program. You'll get the needed calcium in the root zone as well as on the fruit. Best of both worlds.

Steve

10/25/2003 11:51:07 AM

wk

ontario

I agree with Steve levels seem fine........your ENR shows you don't really need to add much nitrogen as your soil seems to have lots avaiable....too much Magnesium cancause soil to become sticky.....add perlite and vermiculite to help soil structure....helps reduce compaction.if it an't broke...don't fix........

10/25/2003 6:38:57 PM

Bantam

Tipp City, Ohio

What does ENR stand for? I understand everything else but for the life of me I do not remember what ENR stands for.

Thanks
Tom

10/25/2003 8:38:08 PM

MastaGardener

Chesterfield, MO

I had to look it up too..It means "Expected Nitrogen Release"

10/26/2003 1:21:28 AM

MastaGardener

Chesterfield, MO

Tremor, how much Gympsum would be appropriate to add? Will the addition of Gypsum create an excessive amount of Sulfur in the soil? Thank you Wayne for the Perlite and Vermiculite idea.

Steve G.

10/26/2003 1:48:23 AM

Tremor

[email protected]

20-30 Lbs/1000

Plants need Sulfur too. It's not likely many of us will ever see toxic levels of S.

Calcined clay also holds water & air. Also relieves/prevents compaction. But lasts around 100 years in the soil :0)

10/26/2003 10:38:21 AM

Total Posts: 7 Current Server Time: 10/30/2025 1:39:01 PM
 
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