General Discussion
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Subject: Nutrient Balance
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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| MastaGardener |
Chesterfield, MO
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"Feeding in the Right Balance" in Don Langevin's 3rd book states that as a general rule there should be: 1. 10 times as much calcium as magnesium 2. 15 times as much calcium as potassium 3. a least 2 times as much magnesium as potassium
Base Saturation should be approximately: Calcium - 75-90% Magnesium - 7-10% Potassium - 3-5%
Based on this, although I received a couple helpful responses before, I am a little lost as to how I should be correcting my soil nutrients imbalance. I am going to post my soil test again below:
PH: 7.4 Phosphorus: 292 lbs/acre Potassium: 664 Calcium: 5158 Magnesium: 724 Sulfur: 70 Boron: 2.2 Copper: 5.0 Iron: 718 Manganese: 278 Zinc: 21.4 Sodium: 138 Soluble Salts: .3 mmho/cm Organic Matter: 4.0% ENR 124 CEC: 14.1 meq/100g
Calculated Cation Saturation: K = 5.7%, Ca = 72.2%, Mg = 19.7%, Na = 2.1%
Clay Loam: 23% Sand, 48% Silt, 29% Clay
My Approximate Ratios: Calcium to Magnesium 7.15 : 1 Calcium to Potassium 7.75 : 1 Magnesium to Potassium 1.1 : 1
Please help a confused guy lol!
Steve G.
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10/25/2003 12:47:39 AM
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| Tremor |
[email protected]
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It's too bad the pH is already so high. A small amount of high calcium (calcitic not dolomitic) limeston would have supplied calcium but not magnesium & the ratio issue would be gone (not that your existing ratio even disturbs me anyway). So instead use a non reactive form of calcium such as Gypsum with a smidgen of additional sulfur to knock that pH down a bit.
Perhaps the sensible thing to do would be to focus on physical structure & pH for now. Then during the growing season next year you can use liquid chelated calcium in your spray program. You'll get the needed calcium in the root zone as well as on the fruit. Best of both worlds.
Steve
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10/25/2003 11:51:07 AM
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| wk |
ontario
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I agree with Steve levels seem fine........your ENR shows you don't really need to add much nitrogen as your soil seems to have lots avaiable....too much Magnesium cancause soil to become sticky.....add perlite and vermiculite to help soil structure....helps reduce compaction.if it an't broke...don't fix........
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10/25/2003 6:38:57 PM
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| Bantam |
Tipp City, Ohio
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What does ENR stand for? I understand everything else but for the life of me I do not remember what ENR stands for.
Thanks Tom
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10/25/2003 8:38:08 PM
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| MastaGardener |
Chesterfield, MO
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I had to look it up too..It means "Expected Nitrogen Release"
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10/26/2003 1:21:28 AM
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| MastaGardener |
Chesterfield, MO
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Tremor, how much Gympsum would be appropriate to add? Will the addition of Gypsum create an excessive amount of Sulfur in the soil? Thank you Wayne for the Perlite and Vermiculite idea.
Steve G.
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10/26/2003 1:48:23 AM
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| Tremor |
[email protected]
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20-30 Lbs/1000
Plants need Sulfur too. It's not likely many of us will ever see toxic levels of S.
Calcined clay also holds water & air. Also relieves/prevents compaction. But lasts around 100 years in the soil :0)
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10/26/2003 10:38:21 AM
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| Total Posts: 7 |
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