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Subject:  multi fruit plants

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thefunnydad

Mineral Virginia

I've been doing some research and noticed to my suprise that many impressively sized pumpkins were raised on the same plant at the same time. Any opinions on this? Most of the diaries I read discuss a plan of culling down to the strongest on a plant.

3/31/2003 9:11:43 PM

Stan

Puyallup, WA

I wish I had the definitive answer on this! Kirk Mombert
grows two pumpkins on several of his plants. I have grown two on each plant in the past. Perhaps, I'll do it differently this summer.

4/1/2003 1:46:22 AM

thefunnydad

Mineral Virginia

I was suprised to see multiple pumpkins on one plant with each weighing over 700 pounds. Does this mean had the grower culled, the other would have been larger, or would it possibly not make a difference in that a 1000 sq ft plant can easily support more than 1 giant? From some of Dill's press pictures, you could surmise the pumpkins in the background are on the same plant.

4/1/2003 10:37:14 AM

Pumpkinhead (Team Brobdingnagian)

Columbus Ohio

I have talked to several growers on this subject and what I have determined is that 1 pumpkin needs about 500 to 700 feet of plant. If I remember correct the plant that grew the 1230 and 1016 for Steve Daletas was just over 1200 feet.
So If you can have a plant that is that large then it would be ok to have 2 pumpkins. I beleive that Joel Holland had a 2400 foot plant that grew his 1026 and 2 other large pumpkins.
I believe that there is a perfect size plant to get the best growth on a pumpkin. If you want 2 then you need twice that size.
John

4/1/2003 11:15:08 AM

CEIS

In the shade - PDX, OR

I thought about this topic a little over the off season.

If you are going to go with multiple fruit on one plant try to set the other one off of a secondary main.
I think ideally you would want a "double" X-mas tree style plant.

Good luck.

4/1/2003 8:21:13 PM

Tremor

[email protected]

How far apart on the vine should multiple pumpkins should be set?
Steve

4/1/2003 8:55:45 PM

docgipe

Montoursville, PA

Let us go back to square one. Do we not pollinate three to six or so looking for the most desirable at about basketball size? Should we leave one or two on the vine as a safety valve and possible growth helper if one is removed later? Should not then the second or third be the best looking and best positioned on the vine rather than any special distance or placement from the first choice fruit?
....If the primary fruit makes it through and finishes safely there would be a possibility that both left fruit were removed for any of several reasons. It could be that one was removed to favor the two remaining and so on. I don't for the life of me see how spacing is so important or if on primary or secondary is the major issue as long as they are not tight up against each other.

If you study all the patches in the diary pages the common thinking must be one or two fruits. If two not closer than five to eight feet. If the patch conditions are real good there is no reason why two could not be supported but each requires an argumentative sqare feet of growing support space in the patch. The argument would be between four and six hundred square feet per fruit. Then you have the exceptional differences on each end of this average. I expect someday someone will grow one from a 55 gal.drum.

4/2/2003 9:53:58 AM

Tremor

[email protected]

I think spacing on a 2 fruit plant is valid because of the plants ability to produce & distribute energy. In my theory, 2 fruit set close together share the wealth from the same root/leaf energy production area. 2 fruit some distance apart would be growing on energy produced by roots & leaves located elswhere. In theory, eliminating competetion between the two. Unlike Squash, Pumpkins themselves lack chorophyl, so they can't produce energy but rather consume it. Just a theory though.

Steve

4/2/2003 11:54:24 AM

gordon

Utah

I know of growers that pollinate a pumpkin "farther" out on the main. The theory is that in case a heavy rain occurs later in the season it is a shock absorber fruit- and the 1st larger fruit will be less likey to have a growth spurt and split. in this case the 2nd fruit is not intended for competition.

if you want to fruit for competition- they need to be far enough apart from each other that they won't grow into each other or stress (stretch tight) the vine if they are on the same vine. you can laugh because this seems obvious but i've seen several cases where fruit were growing into each other and needed to be move... were talking at the 5-6 hundrend pound range... having to moving one that big can not only put a lot of stress on the stem and vine.... but on the grower too ! I think how far apart depends on you plant shape.
What CEIS makes sence to me... but I've also seen two big pumpkins not far apart from each other on a one main plant.
I'd guess it works either way... which is better ? who knows ?
gordon

4/2/2003 12:07:58 PM

thefunnydad

Mineral Virginia

Well, one of my interests was effects of pollination. It looks like the Holly Grail for me is going to be a large, fairly round, deep orange fruit. Starting from the premise that in most cases we only end up with one viable seed from a contender due to scarcity anyway, If I set two, but use different pollinators, I can track how each fruit is affected. Maintenance is somewhat reduced; only working with one plant. The smaller benefits go on, but you get the idea.

4/2/2003 1:48:17 PM

Total Posts: 10 Current Server Time: 11/5/2025 4:27:55 AM
 
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