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Mastic Beach, New York

ok,what is perfect soil by the numbers?you know how many ppm for n.p.k and ca. are we looking for..
thanks any input

billy

3/14/2003 10:26:30 PM

[email protected]

Billy,
I don't think such numbers are all that relevant. Ratios & balance are though. It's just too easy to correct for NPK to get overly concerned with them unless they're too high.

But your question is valid none the less. To start, pH should be around 6.8 (=/- .2). CEC would ideally be as high as possible, but then we'd be dealing with a heavy clay & no one wants that. Percent Organic Matter would be at least 10%, but could be 20%. The Calcium to Magnesium ratio would be between 3-4.5:1. Other micro's would all be "in range".

Now to contradict myself. I've been lurking the AGGC website looking at the posted soil tests of the most accomplished growers. Of particular interest to me has been when multiple "hitters" have grown the same seed, in similar areas. I like to compare the soil tests (where available) to see if there has been an impact on growth rate & color that could be considered relevant. This draws some very broad conclusions that make for potentially ambiguous results. We can't tell for instance whether one grower had an irrigation system failure or some other type of stress to deal with that affected the results.

Anyway, check the AGGC long enough & you may note the same broad similarites that I have. Or not.

Steve

3/14/2003 11:02:06 PM

churchville, ny

Tremor-since you seem to be quite an expert on this, I like pumpkin bill find soil numbers one our biggest questions- I had my soil tested at Cornell and the P(43), Mg(480) and Ca(3170) all came back high+, the K(180) was high-, I am worried about over fertilizing this year but feel in order to grow the "big" one I should fertilize-quite a dilemma. I know my pH is high (7.6)
what type of sulfur will lower thr pH fastest? Thanks Tom

3/15/2003 9:14:35 PM

Appalachian Mtns.

Aluminum sulfate..

3/15/2003 10:54:15 PM

Appalachian Mtns.

But you are right, Steve would be your expert..

3/15/2003 11:01:16 PM

porterville,california usa

what i use is called "soil sulfer". looks like plain ol` sulfer, and the bag says fastest way to drop your ph.

3/16/2003 1:15:36 AM

[email protected]

To simplify the pH reduction, use ag grade sulfur to knock down that pH. Five pounds per 1000 sq ft is enough. Do it soon & things will be in pretty good shape by mid May. Other sulfates also contain Nitrogen in high chloride forms. Not a huge deal. But let's not complicate the overall fertility issue any further than necessary. Can you fax a copy of the results?
If you can find it, "Pelletized Sulfur" or "Split Pea" is easier to spread than the powder forms. Should cost about $10-$15 per 50 lb bag.

Dedicated Fax 203-378-7087 (or scan them into an adobe pdf & email?)

Regardless of actual "pounds of element per acre" or "ppm" etc, the main factor in determining a fertility program is the base saturation & CEC combined with crop performance anticipated. We need the entire print out & what test protocol the lab used to figure this out.

Steve

3/16/2003 9:50:00 AM

churchville, ny

Steve-thanks for the info-I will find a fax and get the results to you Tom

3/16/2003 10:16:15 AM