From

Location

Message

Date Posted

Bristol, ME ([email protected])

I would be very interested in an article or just a bunch of posts here on the various pruning tecniques people use and the theories behind why. This seems to be an important subject that gets taken for granted without alot of available information.

12/22/2002 8:32:58 PM

Montoursville, PA

Best time early AM give air of the day time to help in healing. Do a little each week to keep plant set back to a minimum. Cut with clean sharp tools in the direction of the growth. Would not be foolish to boil the cutting tool before and between plants. Make cut as close to stem as possible without cutting into the stem from which the growth is being cut.

Some may advise a dusting of fungicide immediately following the cut. They heal quickly and may not need fungicide.

Don't leave waste lay in the patch.

12/23/2002 12:17:50 AM

Bristol, ME ([email protected])

Good stuff doc, but I'm taking about things like, starting to prune every other secondary when the vine is so long or cutting back secondarys after the fruit is so old, that kind of thing..there are many theories and practices that people use when it comes to pruning as it relates to the age of the plant..I think alot of knowledge could be shared if those theories and practices were put up for all to read, ponder and ask questions about...

12/23/2002 7:13:00 AM

Deer Park, WI

Check out the pruning article I wrote. Its posted on my website, which can be found in the links section here.

12/23/2002 8:19:07 AM

[email protected]

This will be the first year for us to prune every other secondary. I learned about it here. It stands to reason , I think, to only use fungicide at those times of the year that favor fungal pathogens. ie HUMID.

Sanitize pruning epuipment for sure if virus' or disease has been present in the patch. I wouldn't take the time to boil though. Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) works. A 5-10% Bleach/water mix works just as well & is cheaper (smells though). If the patch has a history of diseases, then sanitize AFTER EVERY CUT. Just cut part of the top off a one gallon plastic milk jug. Leave the handle on it. Add a liitle less than 1 qt of the bleach & water mix. Dip the pruner after every cut. Don't wear your favorite pants. I wipe the wet pruner on my jeans after every dip.

For folks with huge patches who want to have both hands free, there's a better way to handle the bleach.
Use a container thats small enough to hang from a belt loop. Use Peroxide instead of bleach if you're worried about your pants. In the bottom, place a piece of sponge that's been cut to fit. This prevents spills. Push the pruner down into the sponge between cuts. Practice till it comes up wet on all parts of the blade that touch the plant.

Commercial orchard supply houses sell a cone shaped contraption for this very purpose. Cone topped brake fluid cans are easy enough to find. It's finding the big can that might take some time.

This method works well on my fruit trees where any other method that I've heard of would probably take too long or cause me to fall off the orchard ladder.

Steve

12/23/2002 8:41:23 AM

Garden State Pumpkins

Stunner, I also found very interesting old posts under "burying the vine" in search section. I can't remember but one of the heavy hitters posted in there a how to terminate a secondary etc...Joze linked site is great has a lot of good tips for all!

12/23/2002 9:02:15 AM

Montoursville, PA

Pruning is done on anything as close to the next smallest main vine or limb as is possible. Deheading is just above a leaf with a slant cut.

Air drying for the cure time makes sense. In deadheading the bury is anytime after the cut has dried or cured.

Sharp and clean tools make sense.

A little bit at a time to reduce stress makes sense.

12/23/2002 2:28:49 PM