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Udine, Italy

I'm a first year grower, last fall, the pH of my calcareous sandy soil was 8,5 and after sulfur addition, in spring I started growth with pH 7,5. Actually the pH was 8,0: my question is: it's better to try the correction by sulfur, by iron sulfate, other products, or mixing different correctives? What about doses?

10/21/2002 1:44:55 AM

Have you tried the addition of lime? This is what I was advised to do.
You want a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 in your soil.

10/21/2002 12:15:39 PM

Key West, FL

Lime raises the ph

10/21/2002 3:01:04 PM

Billerica,Massachusetts

organics will lower PH

10/21/2002 3:23:32 PM

Farmington, Utah

Don't use lime!!!!

10/21/2002 10:52:11 PM

Thanks for the info on lime!! I had it backwards! I know I went to my first weigh off (as an observer) last Saturday and was told that in our area we really HAVE to add lime.

I plan on doing soil testing but I'm so thankful for the education I am getting here from those in the know!!

Thanks again all!
Michele (note to self....lime RAISES pH)

10/21/2002 11:38:18 PM

Key West, FL

Lime is used to raise soil pH. You want to lower your soil pH. If you add alot of manure or organics to your garden it will lower the pH some.

10/21/2002 11:39:06 PM

Puyallup, WA

That is correct, Ben. Manure lowered my pH by at least .5 in 5 months.

10/22/2002 2:23:39 AM

Stan, you're in my general area....do we have a naturally low pH here and that is why we would need lime? Geneva and others all said I should add my lime now...but I haven't even tested the soil yet.
Or, is the addition of lime now to balance out the large quanities of organic material I will be adding??

10/22/2002 9:17:18 AM

Key West, FL

I live in vancouver WA and i have pretty low pH around 5.5 and i think it is due to pine needles from all the dug firs, the needles are acidic.

10/22/2002 2:41:53 PM

Yep....I'm surrounded by fir, pine, & cedar trees. I will test first...but I'll bet my pH is very low also.

Thanks,
Michele

10/22/2002 3:22:13 PM

Ga.

YIKES!!!! I had a soil test done eariler,,ph was 6.8....I have been adding fresh manure,,not tilled in yet...So this is going to lower ph,,,so will I have to add lime now,,or in spring???Kinda hard to get a good soil sample now with all the manure on top....

10/22/2002 3:47:47 PM

Key West, FL

I would add a little bit of lime now to equal out the manure and so it will have taken effect by the spring.I would put mabey 40 to 80 pounds (1000 sq/ft) of lime on depending on how much manure you are adding. Its not a big deal though jeff it probably wouldnt hurt your pH very much if you didnt add any lime.

10/22/2002 4:25:54 PM

Western NY

i know some of you are trying to help, but saying "just throw some lime on it" can be as dangerous as any other fertilizer blunder. over-liming, especially in already calcerous soils can be very detrimental to the soil. the worst part is that the problem won't be noticible until at least a year or two after you start over-liming, at which point, i'm sure you've already added more. you need to ask yourself what minerals are driving the pH in one direction or the other, as it's a complex interaction. you should also note that organic matter and manure is not always acidic. it usually is as a general rule,depending on how it is stored, but unless you're getting a good soil test done every year, you can't be sure.

Andy

10/22/2002 6:35:53 PM

Andy...the lime thing has been corrected...it was my mistake as I had the result of lime reversed (I was thinking it lowered pH) I was corrected and apologize for any confusion my statement may have caused.....however, no one else has told ermacora67 to use lime.

The growers in my area (Pacific Northwest) routinely use lime. As I am very new, not having grown even one AG yet, I am trying to learn as much as possible in a short amount of time....hence my line of questioning.

Hope that explains things a bit better.
Michele

10/22/2002 9:26:10 PM

Key West, FL

I think he was talking to me, andy knows alot about soils so if he corrected me he knows what hes talking about and i dont.

10/22/2002 9:29:40 PM

Udine, Italy

OK for addition of organic manure, but what is the maximun amount of manure suitable? I have the possibility to add horse or cow or rabbit manure; what is the best? Thanks

10/23/2002 1:57:18 AM

porterville,california usa

erma last february i had a p.h. of 7.5. I added 10 lb. of ironite and 5 lb. of soil sulpher AND 5 lb. of ammonium sulphate to one patch that is about 1000 sq. ft. On May 1st the p.h. was 7.1. Today the p.h. is 6.8 and holding steady. I also added two pick-up loads of composted cow manure. In my opinion cow manure is best because it breaks down into plant useable nutrients quicker. Just my 2 pennies.

10/23/2002 2:38:22 AM

porterville,california usa

Forgot to mention that my soil is sandy loam. So your results may vary from mine depending on your soil type. Booth

10/23/2002 2:43:01 AM

Western NY

sorry guys, didn't mean to make it sound like it was toward anyone in particular. even if his pH was low, i still would have made the same post. just trying to advise people to be cautious.

Andy

10/23/2002 5:45:31 PM

Deer Park WA

Awww a manure thread! I can't seem to get enough of it or leaves, especially if mixed together and composted for a winter. It seems to be natures way of balancing things out (pH) at least thats my two cents worth.................

10/24/2002 12:14:45 AM

Thanks Andy :-) I don't think anyone took offense...I value the information you and others provide. I just wanted to make sure you understood my goofed up post :-)
Michele

10/24/2002 12:52:04 AM

Caceres, Spain

Erma, horse manure is the hottest, if it is fresh; both cows and horses manures use to carry a lot of weed seeds, while rabbit ones is free. I have used the three of them, and didn't find much difference. If the manure is very well decomposted is not already manure but really compost and you can broadcast as much as you like, a pumpkin can grow nice even on the top of a compost mountain.

10/28/2002 1:46:59 AM