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myrtle creek Oregon

Anyone have any suggestions, due to wildfires near the bugs are fierce and I've acquired an infestation of white flies. How to rid them and has anyone else experienced this? This is my first pest problem and I'm hesitant to spray something in fear I'll damage plant.

8/1/2015 10:50:53 PM

Central NY

Never delt with white flies but I think azamax will work...2oz per gallon ...spray in the evening.. Gentle on plants.. Here's a link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_ss_sc_0_6?k=azamax&sprefix=azomax

8/1/2015 10:56:02 PM

Easthampton, MA

White flies can be controlled with a lot of 'soft on plants and low toxicity' pesticides. They usually aren't a problem at low populations, but they can build up to damaging levels fairly quickly, so I would recommend treating them even if there aren't clouds of them. :)

First option would be Safer Soap:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=safer+soap

It only works on soft bodied insects and basically covers them so they can't breath. Whiteflies are a good target since adults are pretty soft and small, and larvae are very susceptible.

The next option would by a pyrethrin or permethrin, or pyrethroid:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=pyrethrin&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apyrethrin

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=pyrethrin&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apyrethrin

Pyrethrin is an insecticide derived from chrysanthemums and is very low toxicity to to vertebrates (animals). It's major drawback is it has a very low half-life (hours). It has been modified to pythroids or permethrins to inhance it's half-life and effectiveness. The synthetics are nearly as safe as the natural form.

Azamax is a good choice as well, but you might want to go with Neem oil instead. Azamax's active ingredient is Azadirachtin which is a feeding disruptor. It is the main compound in Neem oil, but Neem oil has other benefits such as some (likely mild) fungicidal action. I would put it as third in the list for more toxic, but likely more effective since it has a longer half-life and will deter insects longer.

8/2/2015 3:15:36 PM

Easthampton, MA

All of these are considered 'organic' controls and would be safe for the plant if applied according to the directions.

All of these will require good coverage of the plant so a fine spray to all surfaces (tops and bottoms) would be application goal. This is particularly true for pyrethins, since they are so short lived and need good contact to be effective.

I also found this University page that describes all of these plus some other natural insecticides:
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/pesticide/hgic2770.html

Hope this helps some. :) I used to do some Cooperative Extension Pesticide Education for UMass so I'm pretty familiar with these compounds. Ask away if you want more info.

8/2/2015 3:15:42 PM

Mill Bay, British Columbia

Like aphids, whiteflies carry disease that will take down your entire plant. Yes, get rid of them, a systemic would work best.

8/2/2015 5:12:12 PM

myrtle creek Oregon

Thanks for all the suggestions, I applied some neem and it has seemed to deter them for now. My next question is the active neem going to hurt my benificial microorginisms due to the inevitable, run off?

8/3/2015 12:30:18 AM

Easthampton, MA

I did a little looking for more information on Azadirachtin (active ingredient) and surprisingly, it seems like it is beneficial to earthworms. Who knew? Of course, to be sure you might want to look at the original experimental data.

Though nematode information isn't available (I couldn't find it) I suspect the impact is very low to none at all, based on earthworm data and ingestion being the important mode of exposure.

This site:
http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/24d-captan/azadirachtin-ext.html

is from Cornell University, and it's crop pest management, and insect research is among the highest regard in the country.

It isn't a very hard read, but you might get confused about the LD50 and mg/kg data. Basically, the LD50 is the dose that will kill 50% of the organisms. mg/kg is the dose rate, so if a rat's LD50 is 4,241 mg/kg, so if a rat weighs .5 kg than it would take 2,120 mg of Azaderachtin to kill 50% of the test animals. Make sense?

I know you aren't interested in that specifically, but it is good to learn to understand that terminology in case you become more interested in how any chemical can affect non-target species.

Scroll down a touch though to see the entry on earthworms. 'Effects on other organisms'

If you have other questions about the bulletin, just ask. Pesticide education is pretty important. The more you know, the better you can choose a safer and more effective option. :)

8/3/2015 12:49:45 PM

Easthampton, MA

Wish I could edit out grammar mistakes. ;) Must proof read more carefully...

8/3/2015 12:50:42 PM

President - GPC

Mallet will take them out... I would spray that or Merit...get a good systemic in there fast...And also mix it with Bifethrin... a good contact insecticide that will also help deter squash bugs...Mix them together...with a good fungicide like BRAVO... SunZ out, GunZ out...get them now

Glen is right...they can spread all kinds what we don't want...and they breed fast too... Take them out before they take your fruit out....

8/3/2015 1:28:53 PM

Easthampton, MA

*** Before I go on please note that I AM NOT a professional pesticide applicator or trainer. I do have past experience however with both, as well as Merit's use in turf pest management research, so my advice and knowledge 'should' be close to the mark. You should do your OWN research and read pesticide labels carefully. You can find labels online to review prior to purchase.

A lot of growers have a lot of experience with applications to pumpkins, but each person should do proper research, especially if the product is new to them. Seriously - do some reading. I'm happy to help if you find research that is too techy to understand easily. :) ***

*** Also note -- the above statement is NOT intended to dispute or challenge any grower's practices or recommendations. I know you guys have a LOT of experience. :) But good pesticide application practices means well informed applicators. (Can you tell I used to do pesticide training? *grin* ***

So with that caveat out of the way -

Merit is a very good option for a systemic. It shouldn't bother non-targets at all - earthworms, nematodes, etc. post foliar application. The active ingredient is Imadacloprid and that is what I have been using. Proper dosage is important and I have missed it myself. :(

I hadn't considered it for foliar spraying. I used a granulated formulation. I like the idea of spray-ability. However, spraying will mean initial contact with non-target insects. But it is rapidly broken down by sunlight, so non-target effects will be brief.

But... It is VERY toxic to bees, so application should be late in the day when flowers are closed. Also prevents sunlight exposure maximizing time for plant absorption.

8/3/2015 3:34:42 PM

Easthampton, MA

I have trouble with 2000 character limits... :)

And post application, you need to insure that no open flowers exist since it is a systemic and will be present in pollen and nectar. Bees collect and return pollen/nectar to the colony so it can have a major impact on the colonies health. It is believed to be a contributor to colony collapse disorder (CCD) -- but note that CCD is not caused by any one factor. Several things are occurring to hives that cumulatively have been creating CCD. You need to be diligent. See my diary for my application attempts, results and flower management.

Imadacloprid patents have expired, so you can obtain generic products now. This is a good option:

http://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Systemic-Insect-Drench-32-Ounce/dp/B00ARKS4WY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1438628403&sr=8-6&keywords=merit+insecticide

Looking at some sample data -- non-pumpkins though -- foliar applications give the fastest knockdown of populations. Reapplication is recommended when pest populations begin to rise again. But, since I have been blasted by SVB this year and Imadacloprid is most effective on egg hatching/early larval instars, I would recommend reapplication when the plant has grown 25-30% in sq. feet (monthly??) to make sure systemic levels remain at sufficient levels.

This reapplication schedule is really just my stab at it. You might see what other growers have been doing with it. I would love to hear what other growers have been doing! :)

It remains active in the plant for 8 weeks or so, but when the plant gets bigger... Well, it probably needs a booster shot to keep the toxic levels high enough. I haven't seen any research data that addresses this, since most crops don't grow as fast or as large. These plants grow crazy fast! :)

Hope that helps a little.

8/3/2015 3:35:07 PM

Easthampton, MA

God I'm on a roll.. ** Must get back to work **

I thought I would share the sprayer I have been using. I really like it a lot.

http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-1-Gallon-Garden-Sprayer/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_z

8/3/2015 3:40:06 PM

President - GPC

Good PointZ MadMike... A good insecticide program gets you to the end of the season... And always read the labels.. and wear proper gear... I sprayed BiZ just thiZ weekend...He is bug free too...

8/3/2015 4:09:35 PM

myrtle creek Oregon

Wow thanks again for all this great knowledge, wasn't a waste of a day I learned something, Thanks to all!

8/4/2015 12:09:28 AM